THE SPECIAL: DECORATING FOR THE BIRDS

There are a lot of myths about feeding birds. One such popular myth is that feeding birds will prevent their migration. Studies on wild bird populations, however, show that migration is an overpowering drive related to length of day and not abundance of food. Birds will not be distracted by our feeders and decide to stay.

In our area, you can expect overwintering birds to include several types of wrens, sparrows, chickadees, cardinals, titmouse, finches, jays and doves. In addition two species of woodpeckers – Golden Fronted and Ladder Backed – stay in our area throughout the winter.

A fun project for the whole family can be putting out decorative treats for the birds. Pine cones can be filled with peanut butter or a paste of peanut butter and cornmeal. Trim a tree with strings of cranberries, cereal with holes, raisins and peanuts in the shell. Tie bunches of red grapes to the tree with raffia or ribbon. Cut out stale bread with cookie cutters and hang on the tree. Suet is popular with our woodpeckers, but is also visited by chickadees, titmouse, and wrens. You can make a small basket from the orange rind of half an orange and fill it with suet or suet and peanut butter. Or make suet cookies (www.ehow.com/how_4510635_make-edible-outdoor-christmas-decorations.html). Wild Birds Unlimited has a short brochure with recipes and ideas for decoration for the birds. Just go to www.wbu.cor./education/decorateatree.html.

If you see a hummingbird in your yard this winter, don’t be surprised. The Rufus hummingbird will often stop short of the full migration and winter in Texas. So, I keep one of my hummingbird feeders clean and full through the winter until I am sure that no birds remain. I seem to have one lingering this year. Two years in a row I had at least one all winter. None stayed last winter. How did they know it would be so cold?

And, please don’t forget the water for our birds. They need it just as much as we do all year long!

THE BAD: MISTLETOE

As the leaves fall, we begin to notice green areas in the tops of some of our trees. Red Oaks frequently have these strange growths. What we are seeing is our native Mistletoe. It is part of the Phorandendron species and not the same as the European species.

Mistletoe is a parasitic plant that grows into the branch of the affected tree. The root like structures are call haustoria. Although our mistletoe can manufacture some of its own chlorophyll, it takes nutrients from the tree, also. It is spread by wind and by the many animals and birds that eat it.

Although we don’t like to see it on our trees, a lot of wildlife has existed for centuries with the plant and use it for various purposes. Raptors frequently use it for nesting. It serves as a larval food for butterflies, a nectar and pollen source for bees when almost nothing else is blooming, and the berries are food for small and large mammals and birds.

Since the haustoria tap into the tree, herbicides cannot be used on Mistletoe. The best way to remove it is to remove the part of the branch where it is growing. You will also have to remove about 12” of the branch toward the trunk in order to be sure you have removed all of the haustoria. If that is impractical, you can remove just the top of the mistletoe growth. It will grow back, but the pruning will prevent flowering and berry production and keep it in check. Be careful not to cut into the wood of the branch when pruning since this can leave the tree prey to other diseases. If the Mistletoe is up high in the tree, it can be dangerous and very costly to try to remove it.

Trees will survive with Mistletoe, but it can shorten the life of the tree and weaken it. If it is safe and economical, removal is suggested.

THE GOOD: STONE PINE (Pinus pinea)

Our first Christmas in Texas (2005), I saw small pine trees for sale in pots at HEB. They were so cute that I bought one. I decided that I would try to plant it after the holidays. It wasn’t terribly expensive, after all, and I could use it next to my barren front door as a little decoration. Now, five years later, I have purchased and planted two more. The first one is about 6’ tall, bushy and green. It is growing at the end of the driveway with no irrigation. During drought periods, I have been known to carry a couple of buckets of water up there, but that about covers the special watering I have done for them! I have since done a little research on them and want to share the results.

The pines are Stone Pines, also known as Umbrella pines. When mature they can be 30 – 70’ tall. As they get older, they lose the lower branches and grow a dense canopy that gives them the umbrella shape. If you have visited Rome or the Mediterranean, you will remember seeing them. For that matter, you can see mature specimens in Fredericksburg!

When young, the branches sport two kinds of needles – some longer and some short. When they mature, the cones produce the pine nuts that we pay dearly for in the grocery store. They are drought and wind tolerant. They tolerate temperatures down to freezing though they prefer warmer temperatures. They don’t need fertilization. They naturally prefer acid soils, but tolerate our alkaline conditions. I do mulch mine with pine needles or peat moss just to counteract our lean, alkaline soil a little. Deer and rabbits don’t seem to bother them, although I have found that I need to protect the small ones from the male deer during the rut season since they will rub on them.

As with all living Christmas Trees, you should keep them outside as much as possible. They really don’t like to be inside for three weeks! Then, plant outside in the ground in early spring. You probably want to water them occasionally the first summer.

The Special: Winter Color and Flowers

Even though summer flowers and shrubs have shut down for the winter, it’s still possible to have color in your landscape and in your home.

Seasonal Natives

Our native yaupons or possumhaws, both evergreen (ilex vomitoria) and deciduous (ilex decidua) grow to be over 12 feet tall, and display red berries during the fall and winter. Now is a great time to select these plants, since you can confirm that you are getting berry-producing female plants, and winter is the best time to plant them in your landscape. Our experience indicates that after transplanting it may take a couple of years for the berry production to start. (We’ve noticed that native plants take their time getting established before committing their resources to flower, fruit and seed production.) The picture shows one small area of a possumhaw that was planted three years ago – this is its first year to produce lots of berries – and it was worth the wait! More information is available at http://www.wildflower.org/plants/result.php?id_plant=ilvo

Evergreen sumac (rhus virens), a shrub or small tree, has shiny dark green leaves, an intricate branching structure and produces frosted red berries throughout the fall and winter. It can be trained to be a small tree, by removing all branches except the central trunk. In its shrub form, it can provide screening or be pruned into a native hedge. http://www.wildflower.org/plants/result.php?id_plant=rhvi3

Another holiday-themed plant is Texas Betony, stachys coccinea, an evergreen ground cover with red flowers throughout the year. Once established, this wonderful plant thrives and flowers in heat and cold, in sun or partial shade, provides hummingbird nectar and is unattractive to deer! Its water needs are modest and an occasional shearing keeps it tidy. http://www.wildflower.org/plants/result.php?id_plant=STCO

Holiday Flowers and Bulbs

Now is the time to plant cool season flowers such as pansies, cyclamen, ornamental cabbages and kale, and snapdragons. We cannot grow these plants successfully during hot weather, but our relatively mild winters allow them to grow and flower. For indoor holiday blooms, start Amaryllis and paperwhite narcissus in November. Bulbs and planting kits can be found at garden centers and mail order sources.

The Good: Winter Protection

As temperatures drop, providing protection to all our plants, which moderates temperature swings, helps plants get through the winter and emerge stronger in the spring.

Protection for Plants in the Ground

Protection can take several forms, but the one that helps 24X7 is mulch. Mulch helps keep the warmth of the soil from radiating into the air, thus keeping the plant’s roots warmer. A thick layer of mulch over the root area of a plant can also protect the crown of perennial plants that die back during cold weather. Fallen leaves make great mulch and will ultimately break down and improve the soil. The Comal County brush recycling center on Hwy 46 provides free shredded tree and brush mulch. And, of course, various mulches are available from garden centers. (Mulch can stay in place year-round – in the summer, it keeps the soil cooler and helps reduce water loss.)

Watering plants helps protect them, too, because water holds warmth and releases it more slowly than plant surfaces or air. Our recent dry spell means that many of our plants are sitting in relatively dry soil, which tends to get cold faster than moist soil. Watering plants before freezing weather arrives can help keep the roots from being damaged.

“Frost blankets” made of spun fibers, not clear plastic, can provide additional protection for plants. These lightweight covers can help keep the soil’s warmth around the plants. The covers are placed over the plants and pinned or weighted to keep the edges in contact with the soil. There is some maintenance involved, as they should be pulled back on warm days.

Finally, before fertilizing or pruning plants in the fall, consider whether those activities will stimulate new growth, which will be more susceptible to freeze damage.

Protection for Plants in Pots

Plants in pots are more susceptible to freezing weather because the exposed sides of the pots radiate heat more rapidly than plants in the ground. Potted plants should be brought into a protected area such as the house, garage or greenhouse. If no indoor area is available, it may help to group them together and protect them by surrounding with mulch, watering them and using frost blankets.

When bringing plants indoors, avoid bringing the pests they are likely harboring. For a few days before bringing plants indoors, spray them daily with an organic soap, then quarantine them for a while so any pests they bring with them can be eliminated before they attack your houseplants.

More Information on protecting plants during cold weather is available at this link:
http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/travis/docs/FrostsandFreezes.pdf

The Bad: Winter Temperature Fluctuations

In Mystic Shores, we can expect our first freeze around November 15. As winter arrives, our average highs are in the 60’s to low 70’s, with lows in the upper 30’s to 40’s. However, within those averages lurk record highs of 90 degrees and lows of zero. Last winter, bitterly cold 9 degrees was measured by home weather stations here in Mystic Shores, which was seven degrees colder than the 16 degrees recorded in San Antonio.

Rainfall averages are less than two inches per month from December through March, and this year’s La Nina weather pattern indicates we are in for a relatively drier, and warmer winter.

Plants may respond to mild spells by leafing or blossoming, only to have freezing weather destroy the new growth or blooms. One of the many advantages of native plants is that they have adapted to the weather fluctuations that we experience in Central Texas during fall, spring and winter, and may not get fooled by unseasonable weather.

For more information and statistics on our South Central Texas climate, visit this link:
http://www.srh.noaa.gov/images/ewx/wxevent/wincli20092010.pdf

October in the Garden - The Very Special

Aaaah, cool fall weather. That’s good. And a sign that it’s time to plant trees. And who doesn’t love trees? Folks often ask what is the best time to plant trees, and the answer is RIGHT NOW! Planting a tree in the cooler fall months allows plenty of time for the roots to grow over the winter and into the spring, so when the hot summer months arrive, the tree has a good foundation to carry it through July and August. Even better, choose a native! Native trees are perfectly adapted to survive the extreme temperatures of our winters and summers and have learned to hunker down and hang on during periods of drought. Diversify to protect against oak wilt by planting Chinquapin Oak, Bur Oak, Lacey Oak or any of the others in the links below. Around here we joke that we are too old to grow trees, but you know, somebody else will live here some day and they will thank us.

Here are a couple of great web links with lots of good information on how to plant trees. So get outside and dig a hole!

http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/ornamentals/natives/tamuhort.htm

http://www.plantanswers.com/calvin/fall_trees.htm

http://texastreeplanting.tamu.edu/TreePlantingTools.html

October in the Garden - Deer Damage

A friend at TP&W once told me that there are two kinds of deer people (there are many more kinds of dear people, but that’s different story). Anyway, he said that half the people love deer and want to see them every day in their back yard, but the other half hate them and want to get rid of them all. I admit I’ve spent time in both camps. The deer I love were those up in the Utah mountains where we had a cabin. This deer population was kept in check by nature’s balance of predators and disease, were not tame, stayed far away from people, and came into your yard to eat your rose bushes at their peril. The deer I hate are the ones around here, who lounge on front lawns as if they are the family dog, who stare unafraid at you while chewing the leaves off your prize whatever plant, and who multiply like rabbits, their last natural predator having been dispatched years ago.

And this time of year, I dislike them most of all. From September through November male deer look for trees to clean their antlers of summer velvet. The bucks also thrash and batter trees for noise effect, coating the twigs and bark with scent glands to mark territory. It’s called the fall mating “rut.” If you’ve ever walked out to pick up your morning paper and noticed one of your immature trees with bark scraped off, branches torn and hanging limply, you know the words coming to mind. The damage can be significant, and fully girdled trees will die.

Take steps now to protect young trees by wrapping trunks with plastic trunk wraps, strips of rubber tubing or protect with hardware mesh stretched around steel posts in a circle. Pre-formulated spray-on repellents are a common deer control technique, but a deer in rut may well disregard the disagreeable taste and odor altogether.

October in the Garden - The Good

Take good care of your garden tools and they will last a long time. Here are some tips:

§ Always remove all of the soil from your digging tools after each use.

§ Never put your tools away wet. Allow them to dry completely to prevent rust and handle rot.

§ Once each garden season, rub linseed oil into wooden handles to help preserve them.

§ After each use, wipe the metal parts of pruners, shears and loppers with an oily rag.

§ Or, wipe tools dry with a clean rag, then spray lightly with a penetrating lubricant such as WD40.

§ Sharpen cutting tools and blades of shovels and spades during the gardening season.

§ Use a hone or whetstone for sharpening and a file to remove nicks and smooth edges of shovels and trowels.

§ Thoroughly clean any tools that have been used for chemical applications as fertilizers and other chemicals rapidly corrode metal parts.

§ A neat trick is to fill a 5 gallon bucket with builders sand and pour a quart of new motor oil over it. Use this as a shovel cleaner/oiler each time you put your tools away. Plunge each tool in and out of the oily sand several times after use.

The Somewhat Bad: Ball Moss

Ball moss, a grayish mossy growth, usually around the size of a tennis ball, often is seen clinging to the branches of live oaks. Although it might appear to be a parasite of the tree, it actually is an epiphyte, which means that it may attach itself to a tree or other perches but it feeds itself by capturing moisture and nutrients from the air, rather than taking nutrients from the tree.

Ball moss likes shade and humid air, conditions that are naturally found under the canopy of live oaks. The branches on which it grows are not dead or dying because of the ball moss. They are dying because they are shaded by the branches above that form the canopy. Tree branches need a certain amount of light for photosynthesis in the leaves. Without light, leaves cannot produce sugars through photosynthesis and the branches ultimately die. However, those same branches provide food and shelter for birds, and the ball moss hosts a small spider that is food for wrens, warblers and other insectivorous birds.

While ball moss may be harmless to its landlord, many people object to it on aesthetic grounds. It can be physically removed from the tree as part of a pruning regimen or by careful periodic spraying.

More information about how to manage ball moss without harming your trees is available at this link -http://txforestservice.tamu.edu/main/article.aspx?id=1264&terms=ball+moss

The Good: Wildflowers!

Plant Them Soon

The spring show of wildflowers depends on something that may be counter-intuitive – fall planting, ideally during September and October.

Many wildflowers depend on fall rains and cooler weather to germinate and develop a deep root system. That root system may determine whether the plant lives and flowers or dies when our hot and dry weather arrives in the spring and summer.

To plant wildflowers, make sure that there is good contact between the seed and the soil. This may mean clearing existing vegetation, planting the seed at the recommended depth, then covering with soil and pressing the seeds into the soil. Check the planting instructions that come with the seeds, or consult a reliable source such as the Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center. http://www.wildflower.org/howto/

If you are planting bluebonnets, some sources recommend scarifying (scratching or nicking) the seedcoat prior to planting them, to allow moisture to reach the seed and speed up germination. However, see the to-scarify-or-not-to-scarify discussion at this link: http://www.wildflower.org/howto/show.php?id=34&frontpage=true

since scarified seed may require supplemental watering.

Simple techniques such as rubbing the seeds between two sheets of sandpaper may do the trick, or line a sturdy container with sandpaper, add the seeds and lid, and shake it vigorously. The wildflower center has specific information on how to establish a stand of bluebonnets, including how much seed is needed and good ways to encourage year-after-year blooms: http://www.wildflower.org/howto/show.php?id=1&frontpage=true

A number of Mystic Shores streets are named for wildflowers, so consider eponymous selections for your yard or street border!

Patience Pays

Perennial wildflowers may need to develop roots for a year or two before they are ready to bloom. Once the blooms fade, wait until the seeds are set before mowing them, to help assure future generations of blooms. Since the germination period may be long, avoid spreading pre-emergent or other herbicides in the area where you’ve planted wildflowers.

Don’t Forget the Birds

Our native birds, both year-round and migratory, can benefit from certain wildflowers and other plants that provide food or forage. Premixed seed blends for birds are available from some wildflower seed providers.

Seed Sources
We are fortunate to have these wildflower seed sources in Central Texas, along with the Lady Bird Wildflower Center:
Wildseed Farms, Fredericksburg - http://shop.wildseedfarms.com/ (sells pre-scarified bluebonnet seeds)
Native American Seeds, Junction (the catalog indicates the soil types for which seeds are suitable. Also sells a “sustainable quail and dove mix" - http://www.seedsource.com/ (bluebonnet seeds are not scarified)

The Specials: Salvias - From Contentious to Confusing

The Special: Sages/ Salvias

I want to promote the wonderful Salvia family. The confusion arises because many Salvias go by the common name of “sage”. This is further confused by the common names of plants that we find in the nurseries. A true sage will have the term “Salvia” in the scientific name. But many plants aren’t labeled with the scientific name at all. Instead, we are presented with names like “Mexican Sage” and “Autumn Sage”. It can be really difficult to know exactly what you are getting. In addition, some common plants that are not in the Salvia genus are sold under the name sage. For instance, there are many gray, wooly shrubs that grow in the western states that go by the common name “sage”. They are actually in the genus “Leucophyllum”. Among these is our popular Texas Sage. And Russian sage – another imposter!

I have about 15 various sages in my yard. Unfortunately, I have not kept good records of their scientific names. What they all have in common is that they are loved by butterflies and hummingbirds. Look for leaves that grow in pairs, tubular flowers with two unequal lips, flowers that grow on spikes, and square stems (which may get rounder with age). They come in various sizes and colors and may bloom anytime from early spring to late fall depending on the variety. Here are some common, recommended varieties for our area.

Cedar Sage (Salvia roemeriana) which likes shade and will reseed itself. It will grow under Ashe Junipers!

Sage (Salvia greggii) also known as Autumn sage. You will find it in colors other than solid red

Henry Duelberg (Salvia farinacea) or Mealy sage which will naturalize nicely in a wildflower garden

Majestic sage (Salvia guaranitica) which will grow to 5’ with blue or purple flowers

Mexican Bush sage (Salvia leucantha) with its lance like foliage and great blue spikes in late summer

Penstemen sage (Salvia penstemonoides) also known as big red sage for obvious reasons

Tropical sage (Salvia coccinea) which is an annual in red, pink or white. It reseeds vigorously

Pineapple sage (Salvia elegans) which is much loved for it scarlet blooms and wonderfully fragrant leaves

And, don’t forget some culinary sage. Tiny plants will grow to 3’ X 3’ plants in our climate. The leaves are great with rice and poultry. Fry a whole leaf for just a minute and use as a delicious garnish.

Resources: The New Book of Salvias by Betsy Clebsch, Native and Adapted Landscape Plants by Grow Green, http://www.plantdelights.com/Tony/Articles/Salvia-Perennial-Sage/, and http://www.paghat.com/salviahotlips.html

Ashe Juniper - The Good and the Bad

The Good:
Our Ashe Juniper (known in the hill country as Mountain Cedar or Post Cedar), is a contentious tree. It is native to the Hill Country, but once covered much smaller areas in its range. It was controlled by wildfires until the European settlers began to suppress wildfires. Now, it is considered invasive by ranchers and landowners. Here are both the good and bad things about this native that you should know before you remove every last one!
• It is native to our Edwards Plateau
• It provides shelter for many native birds and small mammals
• It is an important food source for our native birds and small mammals
• It can provide a great visual and wind screen since it is dense and evergreen
• It takes up less water from its roots than Live Oaks (see www.texas huntfish.com)
• It is drought and heat resistant and tolerates our low winter temperatures
• Only the male trees send out pollen (so keep the ladies – the ones with the blue berries)
• It loves rocky hillsides and works to prevent erosion on those sites
• Deer don’t eat it!
• It is the larval host plant for Juniper Hairstreak and Olive Butterflies
• The bark of mature junipers is the only nesting material that the Golden Cheeked Warbler will use
The Bad:
• It is very flammable and should be removed from the 30 – 50’ perimeter around the house and buildings
• Many folks are very allergic to the pollen that the male trees produce in large quantities
• It holds the first ¼ inch of rain in its canopy preventing it from getting to the water table or plants below
• Large stands probably affect stream flow or groundwater recharge by as much as 5%
• It will take over grassland and live oak savannahs
So, think twice about removing your Ashe Juniper. It would be a great assistance to our wildlife if you would leave a couple of mature trees on your property. Ashe Juniper can be removed by pulling small trees or cutting them off below the last green branch. They don’t regenerate from the roots.

The Really, Really Special… Plain Old H20

If you live away from the lake, as many of us on the “other side” of 306 do, the terrain is rocky and dry. No water this time of year, even in the hidden recesses of Suche Creek (ok, so we had some hurricane leftovers). Cracks in the soil and brown stubble cover the fields.

What can we do to attract wildlife to our yards and help them through the hot summer months? Water. It’s that simple. Doesn’thave to be large and impressive. A small pond or birdbath will do. The only requirements are that it be clean and permanent, so when the animals and birds come looking, the water source is reliable and constant. Soon after you fill it, ferns and other aquatic plants appear. Moss grows on the rocks. Water skippers and dragonflies and honeybees stop in for a drink.

Our first water feature was a hollowed out rock with a drip line on a timer. We put it in before our house was finished, and for 5 years we’ve looked out our window to see: foxes, turkeys, a hawk bathing, raccoons, porcupines, deer, frogs, water skippers, dragonflies, one very cute small Texas Ribbon Snake, Cedar Waxwings, robins, Painted Buntings, Summer Tanagers, and the list goes on. If you don’t do anything else outside during the entire month of July, build a small, permanent water source.

Our animal friends will love you for it!

The Bad….Sorghum halepense ~ Johnson Grass

You’ve seen it. Sticking up its tasseled head above the native grasses along the roadsides, or out in our back yards. This very aggressive weedy species is found throughout much of Texas. One of the largest grasses, it can reach 6 feet tall. The plant flowers from June to November and produces a natural toxin from its root system that prevents other plants from growing close to it, so it effectively serves as an “herbicide” to the competition. Refer to these web sites for control information:

http://www.texasinvasives.org/invasives_database/detail.php?symbol=SOHA

http://www.ci.austin.tx.us/growgreen/downloads/invasiveplants.pdf

It’s July. It’s hot. All our plants are hunkered down, wilting in the afternoon, barely hanging on waiting for cooler weather. But what can we grow in our gardens that laughs at the heat and loves to show off all summer long?

The Good...Caesalpinia pulcherrima

With common names of Poinciana, Mexican Bird of Paradise, Pride of Barbados and Red Bird of Paradise, this heat loving plant draws oohs and aahs from all who see it. This summer-friendly addition to our gardens is available in local nurseries (I’ve even seen it at Home Depot!), but better yet, is very easily started from seed. Find the hottest, sunniest spot in your yard... seriously.

This plant does poorly in shade, gets leggy and bloom is reduced. I start mine by scooping out a shallow depression in the soil and scattering in 8-10 seeds, covered lightly by soil. A small coffee can of water once a day, and you will see sprouts in about a week. The plants in my yard grow at least three feet or more every summer. They freeze to the ground in winter, but not to worry. A layer of mulch protects them. All mine came back this year and if they survived our 10 degree winter, they will survive anything. Along about the middle of May start looking for new growth, and depending on our spring weather, they should sprout thru the mulch by the end of May. Collect seeds from the large pods that will form in late summer, and you will have a ready supply to share with all your neighbors! A more cold-tolerant, yellow-flowered cultivar is available. Caesalpinia gilliesii is a fave of Viv’s, my gardening neighbor up the street. Her yellow variety sprouted up much earlier this spring than my reds. OK, she gave me some seed so I don’t have to wait so long. Whichever you choose, you CAN’T GO WRONG! Well, the one thing you can do wrong is over-watering. Don’t do that. These plants are naturalized in Texas in spots where there is no water other than that from the skies. Stick one of these in the ground this summer & be happy!

http://www.pcmg-texas.org/pride_of_barbados.pdf

Mulch = Moisture

Mulching planting beds can help reduce the soil’s water evaporation and help protect plant roots from the upcoming summer heat. Mulching with shredded bark or similar materials mimics the natural woodland process where leaves and other tree materials blanket the ground and ultimately break down and add organic material to the earth.

Shredded bark mulches can protect your plants by keeping the soil at a more even temperature and reducing moisture lost to evaporation. Although mulches may absorb some water before allowing it to reach the soil, they reduce subsequent evaporation, and keep the soil from crusting over, which improves the soil’s ability to absorb water.

Bark mulches and other organic mulches are available from local soil companies and home improvement stores. The Comal County Brush Recycling facility provides shredded mulch free for pickup by county residents and accepts brush and tree cutting dropoffs. Loads of mulch must be covered when transported. For hours and location, visit their website at http://www.co.comal.tx.us/rec.htm

Gravel and stone can also be used to mulch planting beds, and do not absorb water. White rock mulches may reflect heat back to neighboring plants – a tan-colored stone may be more appropriate for plants that would not tolerate the additional heat and light.

Other Considerations:

Weeds and other pests may find the mulched areas attractive, or weed seeds may be present in mulch. Keep an eye out for invasive weeds such as bindweed and Johnson grass. Bindweed has a long brittle root and will regrow from small pieces left in the soil – persistent removal or glyphosate applications may be needed. Johnson grass (shown at right) has long roots that will also regenerate from pieces left in the soil.
Bindweed
Landscape fabric under the mulch will help reduce weeds, but will have to be cut when plant positions are changed. Cardboard or newspapers placed under the mulch provide a shorter-term weed deterrent.

To discourage pillbugs, snails and similar pests from living under mulch, there are pesticides available: some are harmful to cats and dogs, so check the label if that is a concern.

Cocoa shells are sometimes available as mulch materials, and contain a chocolate residue that may be harmful to cats and dogs if eaten.

Landscaping for Fire Prevention

Here in Hill Country in the summer, one of the greatest threats is grass fires. While we all want to keep our neighborhood as natural as possible, it is only prudent to protect our homes from wildfire. One important step is to landscape appropriately.

The Texas Forest Service has a lot of great information on line (http://texasforestservice.tamu.edu).

Here are some ideas that I gleaned from their site:
· Keep a zone of at least thirty (30’) feet around your home that is defensible. Keep this area irrigated and green. Use plants that are fire resistant and well spaced. This is a great place for green lawn. Also consider how sidewalks, stone mulches, driveways, masonry walls, etc. make the area defensible. Keep brush piles, firewood, highly flammable trees and shrubs (Pines, Juniper and Cedar), dead trees and branches out of this area.
· Select open branched , high moisture, easy to care for trees like oaks and maples. Plant small trees and shrubs away from the larger trees.
· Put down gravel or stone mulch under propane tanks.
· Have a secondary zone that goes out another 30 or so feet that has low growing, green vegetation. This area should have some irrigation to keep plants healthy.
· Keep extra feet of hose around on your property. You want to be able to reach as much of your property line as is reasonable until the fire trucks arrive. You may be fighting the fire by yourself for 15 minutes or so.
· In the natural areas that are further out, remember that cutting the wild grasses will help prevent the uncontrollable, rapid spread of fire. You may want to selectively thin and cut shrubs and trees in even this natural area to make it easier to control fires.

Be Aware of Invasive Pond Plants!

If you have a pond and are thinking about adding some plants, be aware that there are plants that are against the law to possess in Texas. These plants include water hyacinths, water lettuce, and water spinach. Also, Elephant Ears have been identified as being invasive in Texas. Since we live so close to creeks, the river and Canyon Lake, it is in our interest to keep these plants out of our yards.

Even native water lilies will take over your pond in a few years if left unchecked. Our mild winters will also not kill Papyrus. So, one tiny plant can become a 3’ x 3’ behemoth in two seasons. The remedy is to keep the plants in their pots and remove them from your pond at least once a year and trim them back. Elephant ears in particular will escape from their pots and are nearly impossible to completely eradicate.

Scarlet Firecracker Fern

When you are in nurseries in Austin, look for the little book Native and Adapted Landscape Plants. It is put out a group of conservation groups in the Austin area concerned with the protection of our wild areas and watershed. It costs $1 - $2 in San Antonio, but is frequently given away free in Austin (or go to http://www.growgreen.org/ to see the contents of the book and other information).

Among the many wonderful landscape plants that they suggest for our area is Scarlet Firecracker Fern. This little gem is a weeping evergreen shrub that does resemble a fern, but is not one. It is a native of Mexico, so it tolerates our heat and droughts (give it extra water the first year to get it established). It also did very well in my yard this past frigid winter. It likes some afternoon shade and can be pruned without any damage. If left unpruned, it can grow to a 3’X3’ shrub. In June and most of the summer it will be covered in red blooms that attract butterflies until frost.

Got Milkweed?

Got Milkweed?

Milkweeds are common wildflowers in the Mystic Shores area, but their varied forms may make them difficult to recognize. They are called milkweeds because they usually ooze a white sap when cut; after blooming, seedpods dramatically split open to reveal the seeds and white floss.

In addition to providing fascinating blooms, milkweeds are a larval food source for Monarch butterflies, and being perennials they will return year after year if left undisturbed.

Two common varieties are Antelope Horns and Green Milkweed Vine:



Antelope horns may grow as tall as 24 inches, but are usually around eight inches high; the blooms have little horn-like prongs that give them their name.

Green milkweed vine, or pearl milkweed, is a well-behaved twining vine, with a single white dot in the center of a five-pointed pale green dime-size flower.

Other milkweed varieties are adapted to our area and occur as native plants. The orange-flowered butterfly weed is part of the milkweed family, but is usually planted by gardeners rather than occurring naturally.

Information on these and other varieties is available at this link:
http://www.wildflower.org/plants/search.php?family=Asclepiadaceae&newsearch=true

Caution! Exercise caution when handling milkweeds or when children are present: the white sap may irritate skin, and the plants are reportedly toxic.

Planting for Butterflies

Planting for Butterflies:

Mistflower blooms in late October and November, just as the Monarchs arrive, and is swarmed by hordes of butterflies during the Monarch migration. Plant mistflower now, in the back of the border, with plenty of space – they will get up to four feet in diameter and height – and enjoy the lavender or white blooms and the butterflies, this fall.

Swallowtail on Lantana, Mystic Shores

Other native plants that we’ve found butterflies love: coneflower, milkweed, butterfly weed and lantana.

For more information on attracting and feeding butterflies and larvae:

http://www.utexas.edu/tmm/tnhc/entomology/butterfly/bfgarden.html

Wildflowers

Wildflowers

Caption: Bluebonnets and Indian Paintbrush by a Mystic Shores Driveway

Establishing a good stand of wildflowers in our area generally means planting the seeds in the fall, at the appropriate depth and with good seed-to-soil contact. The following site has specific information on establishing and maintaining specific wildflowers:

http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/wildseed/info/1a.1.html

Sources for wildflower seeds:

Native American Seed, Junction Texas: http://www.seedsource.com/

WildSeed, Fredericksburg, Texas: http://www.wildseedfarms.com/